DIOR Prêt- à-Porter Collection Printemps-Eté 2017

• Fashion Week, Mode

by pascal iakovou on 26 octobre 2016 196 Views |  Like

DIOR Prêt- à-Porter Collection Printemps-Eté 2017

Prêt- à-Porter Collection Printemps-Eté 2017

«Je m’efforce d’être attentive au monde et de créer une mode qui ressemble aux femmes d’aujourd’hui , explique Maria Grazia Chiuri, directrice artistique des collections de haute couture, de prêt-à-porter et d’accessoires féminins de la Maison Dior, une mode qui les accompagne dans leurs transformations, pour échapper aux catégories stéréotypées “masculin/féminin“, “jeune/moins jeune“, “raison/sentiment“, qui présentent par ailleurs des aspects complémentaires. L’escrime est une discipline dans laquelle l’équilibre entre pensée et action, l’harmonie entre esprit et cœur sont essentiels. L’uniforme des escrimeuses est, à l’exception de protections spéciales, identique à celui des escrimeurs. Le corps féminin s’adapte à cette tenue qui, à son tour, semble façonnée selon ses formes. »

Maria Grazia Chiuri est la première femme à diriger la création de la Maison Dior ; son regard féminin audacieux – féministe est un mot récurrent chez elle – explore les règles de la beauté moderne pour les transposer dans une collection régie par cette tension sensuelle qui règne entre le corps et le vêtement. Le New Look de Christian Dior défiait la modernité et la rigueur de la tenue, en redonnant à la femme les courbes et le raffinement que la guerre avait effacés, une mode résolument nouvelle à cette époque. Maria Grazia Chiuri se confronte à la tradition de la maison Dior et replace ainsi la femme au centre, en bousculant les attentes et en remettant en cause ce qui est tenu pour acquis. Elle appelle à réfléchir aux formes d’une silhouette contemporaine, agile, olympienne, élitiste dans l’élégance sportive, tout en restant à la portée de chacune puisque l’uniforme est à la fois un élément unique et sériel. Il est un lieu où le corps s’exprime dans son individualité et où il peut partager en même temps avec les autres corps les règles du jeu et du paraître.

Les éléments de cet uniforme tels que les masques, vestes et lacets sont autant de pièces détonantes dont les lignes exaltent la clarté constructive du projet de Maria Grazia Chiuri, qui fait sienne la rupture fondatrice des origines – celle de Christian Dior – pour traverser, sans a priori, une histoire extraordinaire ponctuée de talents divers en s’appropriant (comme dans Postproduction de Nicolas Bourriaud) chaque pièce utile afin de construire une nouvelle grammaire dans laquelle s’écoule sans logique aucune le temps toujours présent de la mode. Fascinée par l’aspect intime et artisanal de la Maison, elle expérimente différentes matières dans des assemblages inédits. À travers des formes décontextualisées et mises en mouvement, elle invente un dialogue entre les signes : le corset qui n’opprime pas mais exprime avec légèreté et ironie le désir de se regarder et de se plaire ; la liberté de laisser entrevoir un sous-vêtement technique et graphique qui suit les courbes du buste, avec des élastiques ornés de jeux de mots autour de la marque, et le transforme en une sorte de rap gothique et passéiste au rythme des j’adior. Un prêt-à-porter ouvert aux influences du streetwear, aux matières techniques, ainsi qu’à cette dimension magique, rêveuse, presque divinatoire, si chère au fondateur de la Maison et exprimée par Maria Grazia Chiuri dans sa célèbre phrase : « Apprenez à suivre vos rêves ». De somptueuses broderies des signes du zodiaque recouvrent ainsi les étoffes jusqu’à devenir de véritables toiles. Des figures de tarot abondantes et savamment transposées dans des milieux différents suggèrent des interprétations possibles de l’avenir. PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Adriana Ugarte attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Aimee Song attends the Christian Dior show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Alexia Niedzielski attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Arizona Muse attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Aymeline Valade attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: A guest attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Camille Rowe attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Carla Bruni-Sarkozy attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Caroline Issa attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Charlotte Le Bon attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Chiara Ferragni attends the Christian Dior show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images for Dior) *** Local Caption *** Chiara Ferragni PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Clotilde Courau attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Diana Kruger attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Elena Perminova attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Gemma Arterton attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Haley Bennett attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Harley Viera-Newton attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Jeanne Damas attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Jennifer Lawrence attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Julia Restoin Roitfeld attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Karlie Kloss attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Kate Moss attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Laetitia Casta attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Laura Morante attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Lottie Moss arrives at the Christian Dior show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pierre Suu/Getty Images) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Lucie de la Falaise attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Marina Ruy Barbosa attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Marion Cotillard attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Marisa Berenson attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Milla Jovovich attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Natalia Vodianova attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Natalie Portman attends the Christian Dior show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Anthony Ghnassia/Getty Images For Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: A guest attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Nicole Warne attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: A guest attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Olga Kurylenko attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Olivia Palermo attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Rihanna attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Sabine Getty attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Sai Bennett attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Sofie Valkiers attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Vera Arrivabene. attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) PARIS, FRANCE – SEPTEMBER 30: Viola Arrivabene attends the Christian Dior show of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2017 on September 30, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for Dior) Côté matières, on retrouve le coton décliné en bleu, blanc et noir. Et ce rouge tant aimé par Christian Dior, en plus du gris et du rose. Le denim apparaît comme un élément conjonctif. Le tulle, la mousseline de soie et la georgette se déclinent quant à eux en maxi jupes dont la longueur varie au gré des envies. Mais c’est bien le cœur battant brodé sur la poitrine, comme dans les premières tenues des escrimeuses, qui traduit, mieux que mille discours, l’intensité et la force des émotions qui habitent les femmes d’aujourd’hui.