Porto Fashion Week, spring summer 2010— For his 15th anniversary the Portugal Fashion week took place at Alfândega de Porto, a wide building, divided in two spaces for the week-end.
I use to work in Porto during 3 years, making little trips during the making of the collections. I really fell in love with portuguese language and the city during this time, it was a pleasure to get back in town then.
The first floor was reserved for the Portugal Fashion event, the big guns (Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Fatima Lopez, Ana Salazar, Katy Xiomara, etc.). The ground floor was for Bloom a special event organized (with Portugal Fashion) by fashion designer, former Martin Margiela, Miguel Flor.
Bloom is about discovering new talents. It’s for the young bloods only (from 3 selected fashion schools) and young designers. In this basement, a very urban place, the shows were informal, arty and sometimes more exciting than those we could see upstairs…
Portugal is well known for his fashion industries and it’s seems that dim the creativity, especially on saturday as a large part of the shows upstairs were industrial fashion (Red Oak, Lion of Porches, Vicri), not the type of things you expect to see during a fashion week…
With designers as famous as Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Luis Buchinho or Fatima Lopez we expect more creativity and risk taking on the runways. According to Francisco Maria Balsemão, manager of the event, it’s what Bloom is for:
« … to bring these new talents from Bloom to the Portugal Fashion, to integrate them to the creative movement of the country. »
As i said below, saturday wasn’t a great day and I have to wait the last show of Bloom but one to found my favorite: Joana Ferreira.
At 20, Joana Ferreira have just finish fashion school, her collection is a mix of a school girl and an androgynous look.
It’s also all about skin and appearance, light materials for transparency and geometric prints like scarifications, « to protect and immune » she said on her blog (please Joana translate it in english please). The prints were inspired by the work of Leni Riefenstahl with the Nuba tribes in Sudan (see The last of the Nuba, The People of Kau), very edgy isn’t it?
She also like the work of Proenza Schouler and Kris Van Assche.
Shaded eyes
I like this minimalistic and shaded look, reminds me Jil Sander.
Shaded geometric prints, symmetrical like a Rorschach test
Shaded suit. Black the color of Portugal, the color of the Fado, a music genre which symbolizes the feeling of loss. Black but transparent for this suit (like the pants).
A very mature collection for this young ex-student member of Wolke Bos a collective of young designers. We really want to see more of her work.
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