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Dior, Haute Couture, automne-hiver 2016

Publié le 28 août 2016 par Pascal Iakovou @luxsure
by pascal iakovou on 28 août 2016 132 Views |  Like

Dior, Haute Couture, automne-hiver 2016

La collection de haute couture automne-hiver 2016 de Lucie Meier et Serge Ruffieux pour Dior est un retour aux sources, aux fondements mêmes de la Maison : les ateliers. Symboliquement, le défilé a lieu dans les salons du 30, avenue Montaigne : un décor intime pour une collection dédiée aux savoir-faire exceptionnels des petites mains de la haute couture, à la poésie de leur travail.

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Le tailleur Bar, l’essence de la maison Dior, est la principale inspiration de Lucie Meier et Serge Ruffieux. Comme un cœur qui bat, il ponctue toute la collection. Mais la référence ne se limite pas seulement à sa forme – cette silhouette signature faite d’une veste cintrée comme un sablier et d’une jupe longue – mais plus généralement, elle joue de tous les aspects du Bar. Et c’est ainsi sa palette originelle, un noir et blanc brillamment contrastant, qui colore l’ensemble de cette collection.

Noir et blanc ont en effet une importance particulière dans l’esprit de Lucie Meier et Serge Ruffieux. L’association des deux symbolise la dualité : masculin et féminin, histoire et modernité. Les créateurs y voient également une métaphore de leur propre relation : travailler ensemble pour dégager un équilibre harmonieux entre deux perspectives ; devenir un seul ; former, sur la dynamique des différences, un tout plus grand que les individualités.
Monsieur Dior lui-même adorait la juxtaposition des deux. « Le blanc, disait-il, est simple, pur et il va avec tout. » Et de déclarer ailleurs : « Je pourrais écrire un livre entier à propos du noir. » De ces citations couture naît une palette noir et blanc qui court des matières aux imprimés, comme si une photographie de Horst ou Penn prenait vie. Tel un tableau de Picasso, lorsqu’il refusait la couleur pour se concentrer sur la structure, la collection devient une étude de formes et de silhouettes.

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En effet, la structure du Bar est réinterprétée. Lucie Meier et Serge Ruffieux commencent par sa jupe qui donne ici naissance à des expérimentations sur les plissés, drapés dans des robes du soir ou sur des jupes longues. Sa doublure – ses épaisseurs d’organza qui lui donnent corps – devient un vêtement à part entière comme si le modèle originel était vu aux rayons X. Les volumes couture du New Look deviennent plus légers, plus contemporains : c’est tout l’esprit de l’atelier ou exprimé par l’atelier tailleur. La veste elle-même est déconstruite, allongée aux basques ou basculée à la verticale, et apporte ainsi de l’animation et du mouvement, un nouveau look et un esprit Dior.

La seule couleur, l’unique ornement, est un or sculpturalement brodé, inspiré du travail de César ou de Claude Lalanne, référence également à l’art brut. Jean Cocteau disait de Dior : « Ce génie léger, propre à notre temps, dont le nom magique comporte Dieu et or. » Cet or accentue la collection, lui apporte de l’emphase, les broderies se portent comme de la joaillerie. Pour l’occasion, les salons Dior eux-mêmes se font précieux, partiellement recouverts de panneaux dorés, tandis que les bijoux de la collection font écho aux formes sculpturales et aux placements asymétriques des broderies.
Tout ici célèbre les inimitables savoir-faire des ateliers Dior, sources de toutes les beautés.

De nombreuses célébrités étaient présentes.

PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Amira Casar attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Amira Casar attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Ana Giradot attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Ana Giradot attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Aymeline Valade attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Aymeline Valade attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Wan Bao Bao attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Wan Bao Bao attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Caroline Issa attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Caroline Issa attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Celine Dion attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Celine Dion attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Chiara Ferragni attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Chiara Ferragni attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Chiara Ferragni attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Chiara Ferragni attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Elena Perminova attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Elena Perminova attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Elizabeth Von Guttman attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Elizabeth Von Guttman attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Laetitia Casta attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Laetitia Casta attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Li Bing Bing attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Li Bing Bing attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Lucie de la Falaise attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Lucie de la Falaise attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Maria Olympia de Grece attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Maria Olympia de Grece attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Marion Cotillard attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Marion Cotillard attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Miroslava Duma attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Miroslava Duma attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Natalia Vodianova attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Natalia Vodianova attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Olivia Palermo attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Olivia Palermo attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Olympia Scarry attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Olympia Scarry attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04:  Sabine Getty attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – JULY 04: Sabine Getty attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-2017 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at 30, Avenue Montaigne on July 4, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)

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