FALL/WINTER 2022 COLLECTION: THE ALLEGORY OF AIR
For Fall/Winter 2022, the house of Brioni is proud to present a collection of supremely crafted menswear in which modernity and tradition are combined. As ever, what remains paramount is Brioni's core purpose: to create clothing of unparalleled lightness and comfort whose beauty is timeless. Norbert Stumpfl, Brioni Design Director, pursues that purpose by applying progressive design to artisanal know-how, articulated through unmatched fabrics and materials. His inspiration is drawn from the city in which Brioni was born: Rome.
Stumpfl says: 'Reflecting the wider world around us, we continue to explore the territory shared between two once-divided menswear universes - the formal and casual. This collection was specifically inspired by Breughel the Elder's painting Allegory of Air, which hangs here in Rome's Galleria Doria Pamphilj. As well as the beautiful spectrum of colour, whose palette infuses this collection, we were inspired by the dynamism and lightness Breughel expressed as he worked to capture the image of air - something that is both intangible yet essential.' 'That spirit of movement, freedom and volume enriches a collection that has been created in order to convey unparalleled ease and pleasure for its wearer. In sync with that spirit, this season also, we are expanding our universe towards a female client, presenting a capsule of six looks that are developed from the menswear and cut for the female form.'
Both exclusive and inclusive - and featuring pieces fashioned from unused archive materials - the Fall/ Winter 2022 collection expands Brioni's vision of urban elegance. The enduring architecture of the tailored masculine facade remains largely in place, yet is stripped of any constricting rigidity: new construction techniques and refined materials combine to shape a fresh urban elegance whose visible simplicity belies the sophistication of the techniques used to construct it.
To create substance in the absence of weight, texture becomes paramount. Generously volumed outerwear is cut in "furry" effect alpaca and Prince of Wales cashmere and ultrafine 180 wool. A supremely luxurious overcoat and jacket in black vicuna with hand-painted leather buttons, or a crocodile bibbed workwear shirt with cashmere sleeves and back represent the apex of Brioni's material expertise.